Fervor de Buenos Aires
Tuesday, April 19, 2016
Buenos Aires - 1965 |
Because I was born in 1942 I have been able to straddle
the 20th and 21st centuries. I would not be able to write
this if I had been born in 1842.
Since my two week trip to Buenos Aires in April I have
been thinking about the subject of this blog. It has something to do with the
curious fact that the City States of Ancient Greece, at least the idea of the
city state, exists as Buenos Aires.
My place of birth, Buenos Aires has a population around 3
million and the Gran Buenos Aires is 12, 800. 000. Argentina’s population is 41
million.
Because Buenos Aires is a port city and the English in
the latter part of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th
built the railway system, all the train tracks (and roads) lead to Buenos
Aires. Many in Argentina sometimes call our city a pulpo or octopus.
I have thought of this long and hard and I cannot come up
with another city in our world that has at least three writers (Jorge Luís Borges, Ernesto Sabato and Julio Cortázar who have written novels, [Borges,
poems, essays, and short stories]) that represent something that Argentines call
costumbrismo. This is to write about the place where you live. Borges has
numerous poems and stories which mention exact intersections of corners of
Buenos Aires, of train stations and barrios (neighbourhoods). When Cortázar
wrote from Paris and about Paris, his Paris was Buenos Aires.
Argentina also has novels and poetry about its interior.
The most famous is José Hernandez’ Martín Fierro not to mention the work of
creative non-fiction by Domingo Sarmiento (a president of Argentina in the 19th
century) Facundo: Civilización y Barbarie. There are countless Argentine poets
who wrote about the Pampa in the 19th and the 20th
century.
But I believe that the idea that a city has three writers
(all deceased) who almost exclusively wrote about their city is unique.
Buenos Aires - 1965 |
While even Borges acknowledges that the tango came from
Uruguay’s milonga he adds to this the idea that it is in bad taste to call the
country Uruguay. Argentines, many of them call it la Banda Oriental (the
eastern side of the River Plate) and Uruguayans are orientales.
But wherever the tango came from it became the song and
dance, not of Argentina but of the city of Buenos Aires. Argentina has a wealth
of música folclórica or folclore, but it is the music of the provinces. The
tango is porteño. It is of the city.
Of late I late I have been listening to an Astor
Piazzolla CD called Hommage a Liège. It features Piazzola on the bandoneon, and
Cacho Tirao on guitar. They are accompanied by the string orchestra of Liège.
The recording is live from Belgium in 1992. I have been struck by the idea that
even from Belgium the music, the music of Piazzolla is not really Argentine (it
is more universal since he studied under the very French Nadia Boulanger (who
also taught composition to Dave Brubeck) but pure Buenos Aires.
American jazz is not of one city and the closest I can
think of might be the Viennese waltz. In literature Raymond Chandler wrote
about Los Angeles and its neighbouring areas. There may be other writers and
composers but I cannot think of any.
And then there is this other startling fact sent to me by
request by my Argentine friend Roberto Baschetti who is an hincha (fan) of Club Atlético Boca Juniors. Madrid has two First
Division football clubs. Buenos Aires has 17 within the city and many more in the
outskirts.
So I rest my case that Buenos Aires is a modern example
of the Greek City State.
1º
DIVISIÓN
ARGENTINOS
JUNIORS (Barrio de La Paternal. CABA)
ARSENAL.
(Sarandí. localidad pegada a Avellaneda. Pcia. de BsAs.)
BANFIELD
(Banfield. Prov. de BsAs.)
BOCA
JUNIORS (Barrio de La Boca. CABA)
DEFENSA
Y JUSTICIA (Florencio Varela. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ESTUDIANTES
(La Plata. Prov. de BsAs.)
GIMNASIA
ESGRIMA (La Plata. Prov. de BsAs.)
HURACAN
(Barrio de Parque de los Patricios. CABA).
INDEPENDIENTE
(Avellaneda. Pcia de BsAs,)
LANUS
(Lanús. Pcia. de BsAs.)
QUILMES
(Quilmes. Pcia. de BsAs.)
RACING
(Avellaneda. Pcia. de BsAs.)
RIVER
PLATE (Barrio de Nuñez. CABA)
SAN
LORENZO (Barrio de Boedo. CABA)
TEMPERLEY
(Temperley. Pcia. de BsAs.)
TIGRE
(Tigre. Pcia. de BsAs.)
VELEZ
SARSFIELD (Barrio de Liniers. CABA)
B
NACIONAL
ALL BOYS
(Barrio de Floresta. CABA)
ALMAGRO
(Sede en el barrio homónimo de CABA. Estadio en José Ingenieros, prov. de BsAs.
pegado a la General Paz)
BROWN
(Adrogué. Pcia. de BsAs)
CHACARITA
JUNIORS (San Martín. Pcia de BsAs.)
FERROCARRIL
OESTE (Barrio de Caballito. CABA)
LOS
ANDES (Lomas de Zamora. Pcia de BsAs.)
NUEVA
CHICAGO (Barrio de Mataderos. CABA)
VILLA
DALMINE (Campana. Pcia. de BsAs.)
PRIMERA
B
ACASSUSO
(Acassuso. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ALMIRANTE
BROWN (San Justo. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ATLANTA
(Barrio de Villa Crespo. CABA)
BARRACAS
CENTRAL (Barrio de Barracas. CABA)
COLEGIALES
(Munro. Partido de Vte. López. Pcia. de BsAs.)
COMUNICACIONES
(Barrio de Agronomía. CABA)
DEFENSORES
DE BELGRANO (Barrio de Belgrano. CABA)
DEPORTIVO
ARMENIO (Ingeniero Maschwitz. Escobar. Pcia.de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
ESPAÑOL (Barrio de Bajo Flores. CABA)
DEPORTIVO
MORON (Morón. Pcia. de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
RIESTRA (Barrio de Nueva Pompeya. CABA)
ESTUDIANTES
(Caseros. Pcia. de BsAs.)
PLATENSE
(Barrio de Nuñez. CABA)
SAN TELMO
(Dock Sud. Pcia. de BsAs.)
TALLERES
(Remedios de Escalada. Pcia de BsAs.)
URQUIZA
(Barrio de Urquiza. CABA)
PRIMERA
C
ARGENTINO
DE MERLO (Merlo. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ARGENTINO
DE QUILMES (Quilmes. Pcia. de BsAs.)
BERAZATEGUI
(Berazategui. Pcia de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
LAFERRERE (Gregorio de Laferrère. Pcia. de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
MERLO (Merlo. Pcia. de BsAs.)
DOCK SUD
(Dock Sud. Pcia. de BsAs.)
EXCURSIONISTAS
(Barrio de Bajo Belgrano. CABA)
FERROCARRIL
MIDLAND (Libertad, partido de Merlo. Pcia. de BsAs.)
J.J. DE
URQUIZA (Caseros. Pcia. de BsAs.).
LINIERS
(La Matanza. Pcia. de BsAs.)
SACACHISPAS
(Barrio de Villa Soldati. CABA)
SAN
MARTIN DE BURZACO. (Burzaco. Pcia de BsAs.)
SAN
MIGUEL (San Miguel. Pcia de BsAs.)
SPORTIVO
ITALIANO (Ciudad Evita. Pcia. de BsAs.)
PRIMERA
D
ATLAS
(General Rodríguez. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ATLETICO
LUGANO (Barrio de Villa Lugano. CABA)
CENTRAL
BALLESTER (Villa Ballester. Pcia. de BsAs.)
CLAYPOLE
(Claypole. Pcia. de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
MUÑIZ (Muñiz. Pcia. de BsAs.)
DEPORTIVO
PARAGUAYO (Barrio de Constitución. CABA)
EL
PORVENIR (Gerli, Partido de Avellaneda. Pcia. de BsAs.)
ITUZAINGO
(Ituzaingo. Pcia de BsAs.)
JUVENTUD
UNIDA (San Miguel. Pcia. de BsAs.)
LEANDRO
N. ALEM (General Rodríguez. Pcia. de BsAs.)
PUERTO
NUEVO (Campana. Pcia.de BsAs.)
VICTORIANO
ARENAS (Barrio de Barracas. CABA)
YUPANQUI
(Barrio de Villa Lugano. CABA)