Hernán Cortés Sat Down & Cried
Sunday, October 27, 2019
Árbol de la Noche Triste,Tacuba México |
In this century we live in absurd times. Supposing I
write here that I am insulted that Queen Victoria, who was singly responsible
for genocide in India and Africa, had the temerity to name our province British
Columbia. Columbia derives from Christopher Columbus who practiced genocide and
brought disease to what he thought was China and others thought was a new
world. He paraded his “Indians” back in Spain and introduced tobacco a much worse
habit than what inspired Bach to write his Coffee Cantata BWV211.
I propose that we change the name of our province.
You might think me mad because I am taking political
correctness and the re-writing of history to some level of absurdity. As I wrote above, we live in absurd times.
October 12th came and went here in Vancouver. I had a
hard time reading in papers and in social media comments on the event that
happened in 1492. Because I was raised in Buenos Aires I can write that
Columbus sailed for his China (and by 1950 the New World) from the Spanish port
of Palos (near the present fino sherry port of San Lúcar de Barrameda) in three
caravels, la Santa María, La Pinta and La Niña.
Until recently you could find a large statue of Columbus
in every Latin American city. October the 12th is called El Día de
la Raza.
Americans living in California might identify that
expression “la Raza” as a self definition by Americans of Mexican origin. It is
a proud self definition.
I remember that by the time Mexico hosted the 1968
Olympics they were calling themselves “la raza cobre” or copper coloured race.
By that year there was no longer this deprecation about not being white. This
is something that my Argentine compatriots might adopt as I believe that racism
is the greatest ill of my country and the reason for all the political
upheavals there.
Because the Spaniards intermarried with local indigenous
populations this gave rise to the mestizo population.
But if you stop and consider that the Latin American
Columbus Day is El Día de la Raza you might understand that in spite of all
that went wrong a right has been eked out. It is a celebration of a new “race”,
one that mixes the Western whites with the indigenous natives.
A place
to reflect this is at El Árbol de La Noche Triste. This is a cypress that
was flourishing when Cortés invaded Tenochtitlan. His hordes weighed down by
gold and silver were close to being massacred on 30 June 1520 in a district
called then and now Tacuba. It was here where that tree was growing. The legend
says that Cortés sat down by the tree and cried. This was the sorrowful night
of Mexican history taught to this day.
We know that in the end Cortés was successful and the
beginning of the end of the Aztec empire was at hand.
The first time I went to see the tree I could discern
some growth. By the time I was there in the late 70s is was a shell of a tree.
I sat down and immediately I was hit by three memories of
my youth when I was 16 in Mexico City. I was taken by my mother to Chapultepec
Castle. There I saw these very tiny green/blue silk slippers that were owned by
Carlota (Emperor Maximilian’s wife). That she survived after he was shot in
1867 in Querétaro to die well into the 20th century in 1927, is
amazing. Not far from the slippers I would stare at Cortes’s armour. It was
tiny. This man, this size did all that? Further on in the sala, behind a glass
window was a beautiful jade chess set. The Spaniards where light green, the
Aztecs were dark green. When I returned in 1987 the armour and the chess set
were gone. In the communications office they told me that what had seen was impossible
as those artifacts had never existed. And thus history is cleaned up.
There are rumours that the modern Egyptians plan to sue
for reparations the Hittites that invaded their ancestors the Ancient
Egyptians. Bring that on.
What is interesting with all the shenanigans of taking down the statues of Confederate generals and the like in the US, is that I have never ever seen in all the years that I lived in Mexico a single statue of Hernán Cortés.