The Warmth of Mexico - Part VII - Ana Victoria
Saturday, March 10, 2018
The Warmth of Mexico Part II
The Warmth of Mexico Part III
The Warmth of Mexico Part IV
The Warmth of Mexico Part V
The Warmth of Mexico Part VI
The Warmth of Mexico Part III
The Warmth of Mexico Part IV
The Warmth of Mexico Part V
The Warmth of Mexico Part VI
In 1975 my wife Rosemary, our two Mexican-born daughters
Alexandra and Hilary and I moved to Vancouver from Mexico City. We drove in our
Beetle.
The first difference I noticed as we drove on Kingsway was
that cars had muted colours and the city was muted, two. The mountains were
blue green and the sky was cyan blue. Overall in comparison to the Mexico we
had left Vancouver felt icy cold.
In 1977 I still felt the pull of Mexico so I traded with Mexicana de Aviación, tickets anywhere in Mexico in exchange for some slides. Some of the photographs that I took in Yucatán of Chichen Itzá, Tulum and Uxmal became my first published photographs in a long defunct Vancouver travel magazine.
I have looked at these Kodachromes and what is most
interesting is that the ruins are free of crowds and I even have pictures of
the nighttime Light & Sound show at UxmaI. I had brought my medium format Mamiya RB-67
with the only lens I had for it at the time, a wide angle (for the format)
65mm. Because all archaeological zones are regulated by the INAH (Instituto
Nacional de Antropología e Historia) the adamantly prohibit the use of tripods.
I remember using the plastic chairs to rest my Mamiya to take time exposures!
I went to Oaxaca
where there was a week-long festival. I went to city hall to get my accreditation
for taking pictures. The noisy hall held many photographers and writers lining
up for the same accreditation.
Suddenly there was silence in the room. It seemed to be an apparition. A striking woman dressed in native clothing and wearing lots of silver jewelry, walked into the room, past the long line and got her permit immediately. I inquired who she was and I was told she was the writer for the magazine Siempre.
Siempre is a unique
magazine that publishes articles from the political left and the political
right. It has some intelligent editorial cartoons and most Mexicans (I can only
speak for men here) read Siempre at the barber shop. I left with my own accreditation with the image of that unearthly beautiful woman in my head.
That afternoon while I was shooting some native dancers,
the Siempre correspondent and an older woman kept getting in my way until I
told them off. The older woman said I was rude but both moved on.
Later on when I was strolling in the zócalo I spotted the
two women having lunch in an outdoor restaurant. I cannot understand exactly
what happened but suddenly I was facing them and I heard myself telling the
correspondent that I wanted to photograph her. She introduced herself as Ana
Victoria and told me that the other woman was her mother. She asked me to pass
by her hotel after siesta.
She appeared in a beautiful Oaxaca dress and it didn't take me
long to realize she was wearing no underclothing. I attempted to take her
pictures but was having a difficult time. Her gaze was unnerving.
She told me that she was in Oaxaca to educate native women
on natural and herbal contraceptives. She said she was flying in a small plane
the next day for a rest at Puerto Escondido and asked me if I wanted to come
along.
I explained that I had a tight schedule and that I had to be
in Mérida that day. I declined. It was at this point that Ana Victoria told me
something that I have never been able to forget or shake off.
"Most men are
robots trying to pass as humans. Your tragedy is even worse. You are a human
doing his best to be a robot. You are an extension of that device that you call
a camera."