A THOUSAND WORDS - Alex Waterhouse-Hayward's blog on pictures, plants, politics and whatever else is on his mind.




 

Facts & Circumstances
Saturday, September 28, 2013



Saturday, September 28, 2013 – San Jerónimo
Buenos Aires, Federal Capital
Guest Blog - Felipe Occhiuzzi


 
Felipe Occhiuzzi, Estación Retiro, Ferrocarril General Belgrano



Facts and Circumstances

The meeting was programmed for noon, impeccable punctuality (seven years had transpired, since we had last met) we were able to achieve it fifteen minutes before schedule in the central hall of Retiro Station of the General Belgrano Rail Line; recognition was instantaneous, considering our first seven decades of existence, without any appearances of visible ailments of note (or at least that we think so), effusive greeting and the sharing of our mutually known ironies, we walk to the entrance of the Subte, C Line, our destination Pueyrredón, D Line, our objective a programmed meeting up at the home of Alex’s cousin Wenceslao whom I will meet, whose apartment is located in a central artery of the city named Larrea and numbered 1234, as we descend the stairs of the station I make a commentary to Alex that the stairs are almost a century old and that they are of the same width and that since the first throngs of people then did not amount to five percent of the present, imagine how dysfunctional for so many users who must suffer their narrowness now. 


Once in the innards we face the turnstiles but our tickets do not register in their scanners, the turnstiles read “out of order”(thank God that it is not a weekday as they are spared the fury of busy-going to-work passengers), a pleasant employee indicates us to pass by and we finally board the train (Alex stops by a an advertising billboard and snaps a picture) and we sit down on seats of an acceptable blue material, we initiate a cataract of dialogues, as the train starts on its journey, engrossed in a commentary about a brochure on Jorge Luís Borges that Alex shows me, obtained from the very innards of the National Library, while we both analyze if it had been legitimately obtained, we did not notice Diagonal Norte Station and did not get off where we should have, in order to make our connection to Pueyrredón Station. So we got off at Avenida de Mayo, and from this station that links to other lines, we started on a long pilgrimage to amend our error, the result of our distracting enthusiasm; our immediate objective, Avenida de Mayo Station (SAME Name, BUT!!!!!NOW LÍNEA A) to board a train to Plaza Once (Plaza Miserere Station), and from there to combine with the new H Line, towards Corrientes Station (the final end point towards that blessed LARREA 1234). Following a long line of signs and arrows, going down and up stairs, we embarked on a journey in search of A Line, through a very long, about 100 metres, well lit passageway, we laugh and discuss, gesticulating with pleasure about our confusing situation, when suddenly we perceive the sounds of a guitar and someone not quite identifiable because of the distance who seems to be singing a song. As we approach we notice it is a woman, perhaps around 50, but immersed in our conversation we pass the busker by, immediately we receive a volley of very loud, sublime and portentous epithets (evidently paying us back for our tribute of rudely ignoring the “artist”) !Shitty foreigners of a whorish mother go back to your own country, shit yourselves in hunger as in Spain, miserable exploiters, sons of bitches! all without any solution in continuity, rumbling on with the voice of the consummate soprano of varieté, her voice gradually faded as we traversed the tunnel our “saddlebags” overburdened with shit and insults. Finally, metaphorically shitting ourselves with laughter, we reached the platform to the line that would take us towards Plaza Miserere; once there we were to board Line H, this is a hallucinating combination as we have to pass through a variety of tunnels and passageways, always with insufficient and deficient signage, but asking strangers that passed us by for instructions, and especially a young lady who indicates that at the end we would find ourselves with a y bifurcation, one would be called Hospitales and the other Corrientes, we took the “Towards Corrientes” to arrive at the correct platform. As we waited, two stangers attempted to convince us to exit to the street and take the Line 64 colectivo (bus) that would leave us close to our destination, considering that the train that we would board would take us only four blocks and leave us a good a good distance away: Abusing our stubbornness we refused all counsel, and we took the train for only four blocks and we emerged to the surface, onto Pueyrredón, after an almost hour of twist and turn adventures, there we prepared ourselves to hop on the famous and recommended 64 bus but, just in case we asked….and yes we were about to take the bus going in the opposite direction, so we crossed the street to wait for our bus there, but we could not find the stop for bus 64, we asked (WE NOTICE THAT PEOPLE HAVE MORE DOUBTS THAN CERTAINTIES), intelligently Alex stops a taxi, cheerfully we are convinced that in combining our mutually diminishing neurons, we are not in the least shittingly aware of our bearings in Buenos Aires, especially me Felipe Occhiuzzi, a conspicuous porteño inhabitant!! having been born in the most porteñísimo and tango-famous corner of San Juan and Boedo. Once installed most comfortably in the taxi, our conductor, Peruvian, he, takes us to our destination, I asked if he knew Buenos Aires well, he answers that he is trying since his arrival four years before, in our short trip I get his answer, yes, on who is more renowned, Cesar Vallejo over Mario Vargas Llosa, which pleases me fully. And with a few more details we arrive at Larrea 1234 and Alex presses timidly, most unsure, on the button indicating 3 “B” (he doubted between “A” or “B”) and ……….we hear voice of Wenceslao whom I will soon meet with pleasure.


Jorge Wenceslao de Irureta Goyena & Felipe Occhiuzzi


Finally inside Wence’s apartment we exchange all the expected courtesies and we settle into a comforting situation, We go through a rapid account of our past lives and early youth (the beginning of the 60s decade). Since the three of us lived the same seven decades we were witness to places and occurrences all shared. Both cousins compare notes on ancestors, they exchange anecdotes, situations of disagreement, distorted memories and events that are best understood from the perspective of a remote passing of time with so many absences and oversights to add to the confusion.

In a most pleasant chat, the instances add up (while Alex prosaically insists on fulfilling his gastronomic rituals), Wence and I enthralled in our exchange of information avoid his insistence (although I believe we had the same need for sustenance), finally it is almost 14:30, not a bad idea to descend the three floors and to rapidly go in search of a good place for lunch, which is something we achieve without too much ceremony on the first restaurant we find on Avenida Santa Fé.

Comfortably seated, the cousins decide on the self-service barbecue, while I opt for a plate of pasta (I have few options in the menu nor do I desire them), while we have a variety of salads and stuff (which at least look good), and we proceed to pick and choose. Alex orders a white wine?? Wence and I reluctantly accept the choice, (it may not be red but it is wine).

Diverting here to opine on my views on the proper cooking of pasta (I am Italian), of its quality, sauces and dressing (this could perhaps be a further chapter to this that I have written) Alex taught us of the origin of the hot chillies, he told us that they were first grown in Bolivia, to be discovered by Europeans in the time of the Conquest, he told us that the name of the hot chillie was piri-piri as it rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and that henceforth the world delighted in a plethora of dishes in which those hot peppers were consumed, contributing to mankind (through sinful consumption) that malady of the “irritated colon”. 



Obviously throughout the process of lunch, more and more anecdotes added up, some of which introduced themselves through unforeseen crannies, Alex and Wency cover in depth family situations of a long past, all of which taste to me most wonderfully but seem, I don’t know why, to be remote; meanwhile Alex criticizes the quality of the meat, he refuses to finish it and opts for a plate of “salsa” which he accompanies with bread, his lunch coming to a satisfying end. We converse at the table and time passes nicely especially for me. I am fascinated. But….the restaurant has to close, after the desserts; we pay and we walk onto Santa Fé en route to the Ateneo bookstore. Once there Alex takes a few photographs, buys some books of which he is unable to pay for. He has a credit card but no required photo ID. The books are returned!!

Unfortunately our day comes to an end, we must return, we say goodbye to Wenceslao, and we take the 106 bus to Retiro Train Station, there our destinations bifurcate since both of us must board different trains.

Felipe Occhiuzzi dixit



     

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Mr Kwan's Fee

Post Mortem - Skulls & Skeletons

A Photographer Photographs

The Belle Of Amherst - I Heard A Fly Buzz When I D...

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Franz Schubert & Inspector Morse

Adrift With Intervals of Doldrums



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9/21/14 - 9/28/14

9/28/14 - 10/5/14

10/5/14 - 10/12/14

10/12/14 - 10/19/14

10/19/14 - 10/26/14

10/26/14 - 11/2/14

11/2/14 - 11/9/14

11/9/14 - 11/16/14

11/16/14 - 11/23/14

11/23/14 - 11/30/14

11/30/14 - 12/7/14

12/7/14 - 12/14/14

12/14/14 - 12/21/14

12/21/14 - 12/28/14

12/28/14 - 1/4/15

1/4/15 - 1/11/15

1/11/15 - 1/18/15

1/18/15 - 1/25/15

1/25/15 - 2/1/15

2/1/15 - 2/8/15

2/8/15 - 2/15/15

2/15/15 - 2/22/15

2/22/15 - 3/1/15

3/1/15 - 3/8/15

3/8/15 - 3/15/15

3/15/15 - 3/22/15

3/22/15 - 3/29/15

3/29/15 - 4/5/15

4/5/15 - 4/12/15

4/12/15 - 4/19/15

4/19/15 - 4/26/15

4/26/15 - 5/3/15

5/3/15 - 5/10/15

5/10/15 - 5/17/15

5/17/15 - 5/24/15

5/24/15 - 5/31/15

5/31/15 - 6/7/15

6/7/15 - 6/14/15

6/14/15 - 6/21/15

6/21/15 - 6/28/15

6/28/15 - 7/5/15

7/5/15 - 7/12/15

7/12/15 - 7/19/15

7/19/15 - 7/26/15

7/26/15 - 8/2/15

8/2/15 - 8/9/15

8/9/15 - 8/16/15

8/16/15 - 8/23/15

8/23/15 - 8/30/15

8/30/15 - 9/6/15

9/6/15 - 9/13/15

9/13/15 - 9/20/15

9/20/15 - 9/27/15

9/27/15 - 10/4/15

10/4/15 - 10/11/15

10/18/15 - 10/25/15

10/25/15 - 11/1/15

11/1/15 - 11/8/15

11/8/15 - 11/15/15

11/15/15 - 11/22/15

11/22/15 - 11/29/15

11/29/15 - 12/6/15

12/6/15 - 12/13/15

12/13/15 - 12/20/15

12/20/15 - 12/27/15

12/27/15 - 1/3/16

1/3/16 - 1/10/16

1/10/16 - 1/17/16

1/31/16 - 2/7/16

2/7/16 - 2/14/16

2/14/16 - 2/21/16

2/21/16 - 2/28/16

2/28/16 - 3/6/16

3/6/16 - 3/13/16

3/13/16 - 3/20/16

3/20/16 - 3/27/16

3/27/16 - 4/3/16

4/3/16 - 4/10/16

4/10/16 - 4/17/16

4/17/16 - 4/24/16

4/24/16 - 5/1/16

5/1/16 - 5/8/16

5/8/16 - 5/15/16

5/15/16 - 5/22/16

5/22/16 - 5/29/16

5/29/16 - 6/5/16

6/5/16 - 6/12/16

6/12/16 - 6/19/16

6/19/16 - 6/26/16

6/26/16 - 7/3/16

7/3/16 - 7/10/16

7/10/16 - 7/17/16

7/17/16 - 7/24/16

7/24/16 - 7/31/16

7/31/16 - 8/7/16

8/7/16 - 8/14/16

8/14/16 - 8/21/16

8/21/16 - 8/28/16

8/28/16 - 9/4/16

9/4/16 - 9/11/16

9/11/16 - 9/18/16

9/18/16 - 9/25/16

9/25/16 - 10/2/16

10/2/16 - 10/9/16

10/9/16 - 10/16/16

10/16/16 - 10/23/16

10/23/16 - 10/30/16

10/30/16 - 11/6/16

11/6/16 - 11/13/16

11/13/16 - 11/20/16

11/20/16 - 11/27/16

11/27/16 - 12/4/16

12/4/16 - 12/11/16

12/11/16 - 12/18/16

12/18/16 - 12/25/16

12/25/16 - 1/1/17

1/1/17 - 1/8/17

1/8/17 - 1/15/17

1/15/17 - 1/22/17

1/22/17 - 1/29/17

1/29/17 - 2/5/17

2/5/17 - 2/12/17

2/12/17 - 2/19/17

2/19/17 - 2/26/17

2/26/17 - 3/5/17

3/5/17 - 3/12/17